Buddhist ceremonies at Naro Photang temple, Shey, Ladakh. Click on a picture to enlarge.
Ladakah
(August 16, 2007)
I went to Ladakh a month ago for a festival to celebrate the longevity
of an 800-year-old subsect of one of the four sects of the Tibetan
school of Buddhism. A man in his early 40s, referred to chiefly
as Holiness, heads this particular subsect in India and much of
South Asia -- though not in Bhutan. Apparently at around incarnation
number five of the founder of this sect (Drukpa Kagyu), there happened
to be two incarnations. One of them stayed in Tibet and became the
line that later came to India and the other became the line that
went to Bhutan. This subsect is of course not as popular as the
line headed by the Dalai Lama -- the Yello Hats though even many
people at this festival were wearing yellow hats so it is very confusing
-- but both are quite popular in Ladakh.
Once
again, as in Nepal, there was this feeling of being in a place where
one could finally catch one's breath. After Patagonia, it is the
once place where I've once again had that feeling of being in place
with more space than people - not something I expected to find in
India. Perhaps it is the space that gives people a more even, placid
keel, as opposed to the simmering rage that seems to underlie everything
in the plains. Or perhaps it is something that mountain people share,
since I feel like I have seen this same placidity and pace in the
highlands of Peru.
One
thing that struck me especially was the visible operation of the
migrant labour economy. Of course you see lots of Biharis and other
newcomers working in Delhi but I had not seen an outdoor labour
market here of the sort you see around gas stations in Long Island.
But one Friday morning in Leh, before we headed out for a trip to
a village, I was walking past the city's main mosque (Ladakh is
half Buddhist and half Muslim) where there were crowds of people
gathered, just waiting. A shawl seller said they were waiting to
be picked up for work, mostly construction, but some agricultural
as well. The people by the mosque were mostly from Jammu -- Ladakh
is officially part of Jammu and Kashmir state -- which is lower
down and west. The people from there are apparently good stonebreakers.
The Biharis also used to wait by the mosque but after a falling
out they now wait by an archway on one of the roads leading out
of the city. Some Ladakhis joke that at six in the evening when
the Biharis get dropped off after work and do their bits of shopping
before turning in for the night, the market turns into a "litte
Bihar." They also say that because wages in Ladakh are comparatively
much higher than in other parts of India, that Biharis call Ladakh
"Little Dubai."
It's midnight as I upload this and I am starving but I dare not
go into the kitchen to prepare any food (anyway there isn't any
except for an old, dry piece of yak cheese from Ladakh) since I
came home to find four cockroaches lying on their backs on the kitchen
floor.
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